I had the opportunity to conduct a habitation inspection on a new motorhome just out of warranty. Leisure vehicle fridges operate quite differently from their household counterparts. With this in mind, it's crucial to examine all aspects of their operation, including 12V, 240V, and gas functionality.
Recently, I had the opportunity to conduct a habitation inspection on a relatively new motorhome that had just fallen out of warranty. It's worth noting that leisure vehicle fridges operate quite differently from their household counterparts. With this in mind, it's crucial to examine all aspects of their operation, including 12V, 240V, and gas functionality.
During my inspection, I found an issue with the 12-volt element not working. This discovery led me down a path of investigation and problem-solving that I'd like to share with you.
Initial Diagnosis
My first port of call was to determine whether the 240v and Gas sides of the fridge were functioning correctly. After confirming that both these power sources were working properly, I could narrow down the issue to the 12V side.
Delving Deeper
With the 240V and gas operation proven functional, I knew that cooling performance wasn't the culprit. I began by checking the 20-amp fuse in the main fuse box, which was intact. Power was being fed to the fridge's main control box, and the voltage from the alternator connection (with the engine running) was within specifications.
My attention then turned to the fridge's main control box. The thermo fuse checked out, but as I dismantled the control box, I noticed burn marks around the 12V element input. Curiously, the resistance in the 12V element itself was within spec. However, there was no power output from the 12V heater pins, pointing to a faulty PCB board.
The Fix
After fitting a new PCB board, I closely monitored the voltages and amperage draw to ensure there were no peaks or spikes that could have caused damage to the old board. I needed to gather more information; so, I quizzed the customer again about their usage of the 12V side of the fridge.
It transpired that they had been using the 12V power to bring the fridge down to temperature, rather than utilising the 240V or gas options. This was a crucial discovery, as the 12V function is designed only to maintain temperature, not to cool the fridge from ambient temperatures.
This case serves as a reminder of the importance of proper usage and understanding of motorhome appliances. It also highlights the value of thorough investigation and customer communication in diagnosing and resolving issues.
Recently, I had the opportunity to conduct a habitation inspection on a relatively new motorhome that had just fallen out of warranty. It's worth noting that leisure vehicle fridges operate quite differently from their household counterparts. With this in mind, it's crucial to examine all aspects of their operation, including 12V, 240V, and gas functionality.
During my inspection, I found an issue with the 12-volt element not working. This discovery led me down a path of investigation and problem-solving that I'd like to share with you.
Initial Diagnosis
My first port of call was to determine whether the 240v and Gas sides of the fridge were functioning correctly. After confirming that both these power sources were working properly, I could narrow down the issue to the 12V side.
Delving Deeper
With the 240V and gas operation proven functional, I knew that cooling performance wasn't the culprit. I began by checking the 20-amp fuse in the main fuse box, which was intact. Power was being fed to the fridge's main control box, and the voltage from the alternator connection (with the engine running) was within specifications.
My attention then turned to the fridge's main control box. The thermo fuse checked out, but as I dismantled the control box, I noticed burn marks around the 12V element input. Curiously, the resistance in the 12V element itself was within spec. However, there was no power output from the 12V heater pins, pointing to a faulty PCB board.
The Fix
After fitting a new PCB board, I closely monitored the voltages and amperage draw to ensure there were no peaks or spikes that could have caused damage to the old board. I needed to gather more information; so, I quizzed the customer again about their usage of the 12V side of the fridge.
It transpired that they had been using the 12V power to bring the fridge down to temperature, rather than utilising the 240V or gas options. This was a crucial discovery, as the 12V function is designed only to maintain temperature, not to cool the fridge from ambient temperatures.
This case serves as a reminder of the importance of proper usage and understanding of motorhome appliances. It also highlights the value of thorough investigation and customer communication in diagnosing and resolving issues.
Recently, I had the opportunity to conduct a habitation inspection on a relatively new motorhome that had just fallen out of warranty. It's worth noting that leisure vehicle fridges operate quite differently from their household counterparts. With this in mind, it's crucial to examine all aspects of their operation, including 12V, 240V, and gas functionality.
During my inspection, I found an issue with the 12-volt element not working. This discovery led me down a path of investigation and problem-solving that I'd like to share with you.
Initial Diagnosis
My first port of call was to determine whether the 240v and Gas sides of the fridge were functioning correctly. After confirming that both these power sources were working properly, I could narrow down the issue to the 12V side.
Delving Deeper
With the 240V and gas operation proven functional, I knew that cooling performance wasn't the culprit. I began by checking the 20-amp fuse in the main fuse box, which was intact. Power was being fed to the fridge's main control box, and the voltage from the alternator connection (with the engine running) was within specifications.
My attention then turned to the fridge's main control box. The thermo fuse checked out, but as I dismantled the control box, I noticed burn marks around the 12V element input. Curiously, the resistance in the 12V element itself was within spec. However, there was no power output from the 12V heater pins, pointing to a faulty PCB board.
The Fix
After fitting a new PCB board, I closely monitored the voltages and amperage draw to ensure there were no peaks or spikes that could have caused damage to the old board. I needed to gather more information; so, I quizzed the customer again about their usage of the 12V side of the fridge.
It transpired that they had been using the 12V power to bring the fridge down to temperature, rather than utilising the 240V or gas options. This was a crucial discovery, as the 12V function is designed only to maintain temperature, not to cool the fridge from ambient temperatures.
This case serves as a reminder of the importance of proper usage and understanding of motorhome appliances. It also highlights the value of thorough investigation and customer communication in diagnosing and resolving issues.
Recently, I had the opportunity to conduct a habitation inspection on a relatively new motorhome that had just fallen out of warranty. It's worth noting that leisure vehicle fridges operate quite differently from their household counterparts. With this in mind, it's crucial to examine all aspects of their operation, including 12V, 240V, and gas functionality.
During my inspection, I found an issue with the 12-volt element not working. This discovery led me down a path of investigation and problem-solving that I'd like to share with you.
Initial Diagnosis
My first port of call was to determine whether the 240v and Gas sides of the fridge were functioning correctly. After confirming that both these power sources were working properly, I could narrow down the issue to the 12V side.
Delving Deeper
With the 240V and gas operation proven functional, I knew that cooling performance wasn't the culprit. I began by checking the 20-amp fuse in the main fuse box, which was intact. Power was being fed to the fridge's main control box, and the voltage from the alternator connection (with the engine running) was within specifications.
My attention then turned to the fridge's main control box. The thermo fuse checked out, but as I dismantled the control box, I noticed burn marks around the 12V element input. Curiously, the resistance in the 12V element itself was within spec. However, there was no power output from the 12V heater pins, pointing to a faulty PCB board.
The Fix
After fitting a new PCB board, I closely monitored the voltages and amperage draw to ensure there were no peaks or spikes that could have caused damage to the old board. I needed to gather more information; so, I quizzed the customer again about their usage of the 12V side of the fridge.
It transpired that they had been using the 12V power to bring the fridge down to temperature, rather than utilising the 240V or gas options. This was a crucial discovery, as the 12V function is designed only to maintain temperature, not to cool the fridge from ambient temperatures.
This case serves as a reminder of the importance of proper usage and understanding of motorhome appliances. It also highlights the value of thorough investigation and customer communication in diagnosing and resolving issues.
